Whattttssssss going on y'all!
My name's Ty Stevenson.
I'm a homebrewing, owner of Waters Brewer, Marine Corps veteran, College Grad, Wolfdog owning, full time job having, ordinary dude who is going to be helping out homebrewers from their very first beer to owing their own brewery. I wake up between 4-6 AM every day, work on my business for a couple hours, take my dog on an hour walk, make my lunch, go to work, come home, walk my dog again, watch some sports, work on more business, cook dinner, and spend the rest of my night with my loving girlfriend. Put that routine on repeat and that's the jist of my life. I grew up living in apartments and motels, with family friends, and eventually got taken in by my grandparents at the young age of 13 after my mom could no longer support me. My grandparents really made me the man I am today and taught me how to work hard fight for what I believe is right. I became a Marine before the age of 18 and was in the reserves until the age of 23. That's a story for another day...
If you haven't read the last two articles I posted, you might want to do that before reading this one. We're putting together the last two posts in the brewing process today.
So if you HAVEN't read the last two posts, I talked about all of the equipment and all of the ingredients you will need to brew a 5 gallon batch of IPA. You can refer to the older posts for the ingredients and equipment if you get lost in anything I talk about.
So here it goes...
The Brewing Proccess...
Starting from scratch... You have all the ingredients and equipment out that was previously mentioned in the last 2 posts...
MAKE SURE THAT YOU TAKE NOTES ON YOUR WHOLE PROCESS, INGREDIENTS USED, AND ANY OTHER SPECIFICATIONS ON YOUR BREW SO YOU CAN LOOK BACK IF YOUR BEER TURNS OUT TO BE AWARD WINNING...
0. Step zero is to take out your smack pack of yeast if that's what your yeast comes in and smack it, about 3 hours before you plan to start brewing.
1. Set up your propane tank and burner
2. Put your kettle on the burner with 5 gallons of water in it. If you are treating your own water which I suggest, add your 5 gallons of distilled water to the kettle, and then your water treatment solutions, which can be made easy using Waters Brewer, and stir.
3. Bring the water to a raging boil.
4. Once the water is about to begin boiling make sure you put a timer on for 60 minutes (1 hour), then you will add your malt extract, all of it. If you can, have someone put it in while another person stirs so it disperses evenly and doesn't stick to the bottom right away. If you're alone, it's all good though!
5. Add the first round of hops, which should be the 1 oz of Cascade pellets.
6. After 15 minutes in to the boil, add your second round of hops, which should be 1 oz of Citra pellets.
7. Halfway through the boil add 1 of your 2 oz's of Centennial hops to the boil,
8. At about the half way mark, you are going to want to get your ice bath ready for the kettle to be placed in. Use a big plastic bucket, sink, or bath tub to dump your ice in to cool the wort down as fast as possible.
9. 15 minutes left in the boil I would add the last ounce of Centennial pellets, as well ads the irish moss and malto-dextrin power if you choose to use that. You can also wait to add it when you turn the burner off if you would like too. Basically the later you add your hops to the boil, the more of that aroma you will get. The sooner you add your hops in to the boil, the more bitterness you will get out of those hops.
FROM THIS POINT ON, MAKE SURE EVERYTHING IS SANITIZED THAT COMES IN, OR AROUND, CONTACT WITH YOUR WORT. Everything in bold will have to be sanitized.
10. Right when you are done with the 60 minutes of boiling, turn off the propane tank and burner and then move your brew kettle to wherever you have your ice bath ready and put the whole kettle in there
11. It will take about an hour or so to cool your wort down to proper pitching temperature, which will be about 68-72 degrees F.
12. Once the temperature is at least at 75 degrees, you can transfer your wort to your fermentor that has been sanitized and dried already. Right now is when you get your Original Gravity reading by putting your hydrometer in to a gravity test tube until you get a number. Once your reading is completed, pour the wort back in to the fermentor Feel free to just simply pour the wort in the fermentor. USE A STRAINER to try and get all the hop residue out. Don't worry about aerating the wort, you want to have a good amount of air to help out your yeast.
13. Now you will add the remaining water, (treated distilled water if you choose to do this), which should be about 0.5 - 1 gallons, to your fermentor to create a total of 5 gallons of wort.
14. Pitch your American Ale Yeast Strain. Make sure you sanitize the scissors that you use to open the yeast pack, as well as the yeast pack itself.
15. Make sure the airlock you use has the proper sized stopper to fit the whole in the lid, and make sure the lid, stopper, and airlock have all been sanitized. Also depending on what type of airlock you use, make it half full with vodka or water, and if it is supposed to have a lid (the airlock) make sure that is around and sanitized as well.
16. Store in a room, or fridge, that will be AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE to 70 degrees F. Yeast react strongly to a minor changes in temperature, so if you can, have a temp. controlled fridge that will always stay at 70 degrees F. If not, put it in a room that doesn't have much light and also doesn't fluctuate too dramatically in temperature.
Now we let the yeast do its thing and ferment! I suggest letting it sit for 2 weeks before you put your now beer in to bottles.
So once 2 weeks have past and your wort has turned in to beer you're ready to bottle your beer...
17. Make sure that your racking tube, hose, at least (48) 12 oz bottles, and (52) bottle caps are sanitized.
18. Now we get the Final Gravity reading by using the hydrometer in the gravity testing tube and pour the beer in until you get a reading. You will then subtract your OG from your FG and multiply by 131 to get the alcohol percent in your beer.
19. Dissolve your corn sugar, which should be around 4 ounces, in 1 cup of boiling water, doesn't matter what kind, use distilled if scared of tap water. Once the water starts boiling, pour the sugar in and stir, let cool to about 75 degree, put this sugar water in to the kettle you used to boil your wort. Transfer the beer to the brew kettle with the sugar water (to get the sugar water mixed all around in the wort). This extra sugar will give the yeast more sugar to chow down on and produce more CO2 while in the bottle. That's what carbonates the beer.
20. Try NOT to expose your beer to the air as much as possible and make sure that everything that touches the beer has been properly sanitized.
You will then begin to bottle.
21. Start the auto siphon, and when the bottle is about 1 inch or so from the top, stop the siphon, and move on to the next bottle. When all the bottles have been filled, begin to use the sanitized caps with the plastic capper to cap the bottles.
22. Now that all the bottles have been filled with beer and capped properly, rinse the bottle. If any beer spilled on the outside it will cause mold to grow on the bottle, and that doesn't really help us at all...
23. Let the bottles dry. Finally you will store the bottles in a dark place that is also about 70 degrees F.
24. Let the bottles chill and give time for the yeast to eat up the extra sugars, become carbonated, and allow the yeast time to eat up all of the off flavors that may be residing in your beer.
Finally, about a month from the day you brewed this IPA, you will finally be ok to drink...
Cool the IPA down, pour in to a glass, and enjoy!
As always, comments/feedback/shares/likes are always encouraged and I hope I helped simplify the brewing process for you! Let me know if I forgot something so I can update it correspondingly! I will be putting out how to brew for all grain batches and for more advanced techniques soon.
Until next time friends!